The trailer can be used for 17 ft-21ft boats. YOu are looking at a used fully adjustable 21 foot Tandem Axle 7000 lbs Galvanized Boat trailer. A 6.75% sales tax charges for Utah residents. No sales tax charged for purchase out of the state of Utah. Local pickup or I will assist with shipping by meeting your delivery service etc. The Trailer is located in Lehi, Utah 84043. Bid with confidence we are a Bonded Utah Dealer #5278. Clear Utah title or MSO (Manufacturer's Statement of Origin) will be provided.Any questions please email. VIN number 1MDAPAU2XEA529934 Manufacturer's Model #TRV40TABBXLW Overall Length: 260” Rear to swing-back tongue: 238” Rear to Winch: 204” adjustable 10” either way Outside frame width: 80” Inside fender to inside fender: 85” Outside fender to outside fender: 102” Two cross members that hold bunks: 102” apart The Trailer has never been registered or titled but has had a boat on it so there are some minor marks on the bunk carpet (see pictures) This trailer originally came included with the purchase of new 19.5’ Triumph boats for a rental fleet and trailer was not needed or used. GVWR is 5,440 lbs and Load capacity is 4,000 lbs. 2,000 lb winch 5 wire flat light plug, this overrides the surge brakes when you select reverse. Greaseable Bearing Buddies LED tail lights Four 2”x 6”x 10’ carpet board bunks Two rear-mounted Fulton ratchet straps with auto recoil Bunks, winch tower, tongue length, and axle carriage are all adjustable. Carlisle ST 215/75D 14“ tires mounted on 5-lug sport wheels. Features and Specifications: Galvanized Silver with hard-plastic fenders, will not rust or corrode Fold-back tongue for shorter garages. Have had a 19' Boston Whaler on the same type of trailer too. I've included a picture of an 18' Mirage boat on a similar trailer to provide some perspective. This is a wide trailer suitable for a beamy boat. The axle carriage can also be adjusted towards the front or to the rear. Bunks can be widened or narrowed 6” either way and the winch tower can move back or forth or up and down. The Trailer is completely adjustable Length can be lengthened another foot or shortened a foot. New led amber side lights, new bunks(Pressure treated 2X6 lumber), side step ups, carpet, etc.(carpet riped the first time I put boat on and could be replaced or removed) Aluminum rims Wheels are Denman Express XT's ST225/75D15 This trailer is heavy duty.Ģ014 Shorelandr (by Midwest Industries) Tandem Axle galvanized Silver boat trailer to fit a 17’ to 21’ boat. Since I bought it the trailer I have repainted it, new wires, harness, new LED's All around. Their are surge breaks but are not connected. I don't know much about it other than he said it had #10,000 axles. The man I purchased this from told me he had a 30' Bajha on the trailer prior to his selling. Bearing still has a lot of life left on it. I will not be fixing hence the low price so this is a project and savings are passed to the right buyer. Left front bearing is going, not gone, hub is fine wiggles a little and the bearing buddy is removed for inspection. This trailer was definitely overkill for me, I have since found a more suitable trailer so this one's gotta go. So it seems this lockout is useless as, either way, I have to block the trailer tires, pull forward so the hitch is fully extended, turn the lockout again, and try again.Up for auction is a EAGLE trailer I purchased and used last season under my 18' boat w/2' float pods. When I spin that manual lockout on top of the MC fill reservoir it always self rights when the trailer bumps around back there. Just the street going by my house is uphill - as in I go up hill to overshoot the driveway then back downhill and 90* into the level driveway. The driveway itself is not uphill, it's flat. The reason this is a pain is because of that root pushing up the driveway. So the bypass apparently can't handle all the volume when backing up and some of it makes it to the calipers. I guess even with the bypass it doesn't "lock out" all pressure to the brakes, just gives the fluid somewhere else to go (back to the MC) but *can* still let fluid flow to the brakes. So by the discussions I would guess this is normal behavior. I'm sure it's not a problem of residual pressure trapped in there. The hitch is fully extended in forward mode before I begin backing up, and before I place the truck in reverse. The "uphill" quote meant the nose of the truck is uphill, the trailer is definatly *NOT* pushing on the truck when I stop to back into my driveway (my house is on a hill). I can feel the solenoid "click" when reverse is activated on my Ranger, so I know it's working.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |